A Journey Through the Peace Corps (Hopefully)

At the moment, I am working as a TEFL Peace Corps volunteer in a small village in Agdash, Azerbaijan.

Friday, December 28, 2012

A Consideration of Airplaines


     During PST I remember standing outside a friend’s house, my hand on the door handle, but not opening the door.  I was staring at the sky, completely enraptured.  I was watching the stars in a cloudless sky wink and glimmer, the moon cast light onto a white and blue plastered wall, and filtered down through an overarching arbor of grape leaves.  But was really caught my eye was a set of evenly spaced blinking lights in the sky, heading south-east at a leisurely pace; an airplane.  In Missoula, I lived next to an airport and saw planes landing every day, usually flying fairly low over the house.  There really wasn't any magic or mystery to them; they were simply bringing people or materials to Middle-of-Nowhere, Montana, and  I never really felt intrigued by them; perhaps because they were so frequent and represented nothing more than more than returning to a place I felt little love for. 

                                                                                      Credit: Raven                         

     But here, in Azerbaijan, in what many people still refer to as, ‘The Orient’,  I could tell that the plane now flying over me was headed out over the Caspian, bound toward the South Seas, and someplace infinitely more exotic sounding than, “Sumgayit”; which was the location of the small, beautiful, though less exotic  yard in which I stood.  It was also only the second plane I had seen since arriving in this lesser-known part of the world to become a Peace Corps volunteer.  And now, looking up at the plane making its smooth track across the star fields, I wanted nothing more than to be in it, heading towards some unknown destination, and away from the terrifying task that lay ahead of me.  In that way, the blinking lights in the sky captured me and my mind absolutely.  Airplanes seemed a much more mysterious phenomenon than a simple means of transportation.  They represented escape, the thrill of the unknown, and the possibility of new and different people and places.
     I look back on that moment, now with some experience in the village that had so terrified me, and see it in a new light.  In representing escape, it also represented a release of responsibility; specifically, the responsibility of teaching children (and adults) English in my village for two years, the responsibilities of coming up with activities and helping implement programs in my site, as well as representing America, Peace Corps, and myself to the general populace   That weight still drags me down, and I still struggle to deal with the expectations that go along with the acceptance of those obligations.  But at the same time, I understand that you can't run from what scares you forever.  You have to eventually face those fears and move forward with your life; essentially, you have to grow up and accept the duties of adulthood.  At this point, i'm just moving myself forward through sheer willpower, focusing on the day-to-day minutiae that helps me keep putting one foot in front of the other.  I am still scared, and still need small escapes to keep myself from turning and running, but slowly, i'm building up confidence in both myself and my abilities.  And the next time I get on a plane, it won't be to escape from something that scares me, put to head off towards something that does.  In that way, I will keep moving forward in my life; and in that way I will go the only way worth going in life.  Up.
                                                                              Credit: Ajay Talwar

Wednesday, December 26, 2012

An Azerbaijani Christmas

     So I have now had my first Christmas in Azerbaijan, and I will admit, I was a bit disappointed.  Apparently, most PCV's get together and celebrate at one person's house; but unfortunately for the Agdash region, there isn't really anyone close to celebrate with.  Also, the person we usually go over to see, was out of site.  So be that as it may, I had a reaaaallly interesting day.  I planned out some Christmas lessons for my classes, and got some pictures of Chrismassy stuff to show them, as well as some Christmas music to listen to.  I taught 5th grade (a + b) and they loved it, especially when I showed pictures of my family at Christmas back in the States.  My 7th grade class went a bit catty-wampus though.
   Christmas!

     See, I ran into a guy in the teacher's room who wanted to learn English, I talked a bit about Peace Corps and what I was doing, and then left to go to my 4th form class.  While I'm watching and waiting for my turn, the same guy comes into the class, and comes over and starts talking to me while class is going on.  I'm a bit wary at this point, and when he says he wants me to teach him English, I just tell him that I'll be doing conversation clubs in the Spring and Summer, and he should look up English programs in Baku (since he lives there) He stays and talks to me all through the lesson though, up until I get up to teach, then he watches me teach.  As soon as the bell rings, I escape, and head off to 7th grade.  Unfortunately, my co-teacher, Durdana, is nowhere to be found.  Apparently she had to go do something in Agdash, and she'll be late to the class.  Ok, fine, I can start and then have her take over when she comes back, right?
     Well I start my Christmas shtick, cutting out the more complicated things since I don't have a translator, when who should walk in but the same guy!! This time he has another teacher with him, and they both come in and sit in my class.  I keep going, writing Christmas vocab on the board and having the kids figure out how to translate it into Azeri, (I show pictures to help) except that this time, the guy and the teacher keep answering, or tell the students the answer (sometimes the wrong answer), and when I ask for a student to come up and try to write the correct Azerbaijani word next to the English one (without help from the pictures) the teacher instead gets up and writes them all for the students.  I'm as flustered as the students are, so I switch tracks, and start talking about Christmas as a family holiday, and explain how Families don't all live near each other like in Azerbaijan.  That little cultural lesson went rather well, and as soon as class is done, I bolt, grab my stuff, and head out.  Except that as I head out the door, the same guy follows me out and says he wants me to teach him English every day.
     By this point I am thoroughly creeped out, and trying to get away.  I tell him I have to go home, he says he'll go with me.  I tell him I have a car coming to get me, he doesn't understand, but says he'll drive me in his car.  Luckily, my host brother shows up and takes me over to the car where my host mother (and her driver) are waiting for me.  Thus, the car is full, and the guy turns around and starts talking to some other teachers, asking about me.  I tell my host mother (as best I could) that there was a guy following me and asking about English lessons.  She nods and off we go.
     We get back to the house, I pull up some Christmas music and the Mythbusters Christmas Special, and just lay back until dinner.  At dinner, my host father gave me a Christmas gift of a chocolate bar (80% cacao) and some socks, my host brother gave me some candy and a punch out figure of a women looking like an alien from the 1970's (needless to say, I love it!)  I was happy and went back to watch some more Mythbusters when suddenly, they called me out to meet one of their older brother's friends.  IT WAS THE SAME GUY from my school!!  At this point I just gave up and talked to him for about 2 hours, and gave him simple dialogues, like "Talk about yourself" or "What's Baku like?", but he kept skewing them to topics like God, consumerism, and the human condition.  Which are topics far too complex for his level of English. (And my level of Azerbaijani)  After he left, I headed to bed, but was stopped by Minara (my host sister) asking me to quiz her on her English.  I did a few words, but she was struggling, so I told her to study them, and I'd test her quickly tomorrow.
     I headed to bed again, when my host mom stopped me and covertly gave me her Christmas gift, a pair of underwear with sparkly roses on them. (Is this common here? I've been given socks, bras, and underwear as gifts since I got here, which I find kind of strange) Finally I got to my room, only to be followed in by my other host sister asking me to help her with an exam.  I tried to say I was tired, I had to go to bed, etc... But she just moved some stuff and sat down. *sigh* I helped her with 10 problems before she noticed that I my eyes were closing and I was nodding off.  She said good night and left.  I climbed into bed and finished the last 5 min of Mythbusters, and was about to close down when suddenly, my dad popped up on Skype.
     It being Christmas, I tried to get on for a moment to tell them Merry Christmas.  O. M. G...  Ok, I admit, I was ragged by that point, I had had a long, difficult day of being followed and everyone wanting me to teach them English. I jumped on Skype and called them, and as soon as my sister answered, I practically yelled, "Type!! Just type or we'll get disconnected!"  I then started typing to them, only for them to keep talking, saying, "I can't hear you. Katie?  How come you're not saying anything?" I told them, "Type!  Type to me!" And then, unsurprisingly, we were disconnected. This pattern repeated itself for about 20 minutes, by then end of which, I was typing over and over, begging, swearing, for them to Please, pleasepleasepleasefortheloveofGod just TYPE!  I was ready to scream and just shut it off when by a miracle, they started TYPING!! Yes!  After that, I was able to talk to my family, and I will admit, that was a nice way to end the day and relieve my stress (Thank God my mom is a RPCV).
     Next year, I plan to spend the day with other PCV's, and have hot chocolate, and presents, and a tree, etc...  I am kind of sad that my Christmas was so stressful, but admittedly, I won't be forgetting it anytime soon.  And, as much as I hate to admit it...it'll make a great story for next Christmas.  Good Night to all and a Happy New Year!

Overview of Azerbaijan

(This post is just going to be a quick overview of where I am, what it's like, and what I'm doing.)

  Where I am:
     Sumgayit, Azerbaijan (Now Agdash, Azerbaijan)
  Why?
     Peace Corps - TEFL program (Teaching English)
  Where is Azerbaijan?
     Azerbaijan is boardered by Russia to the North, Iran to the South, Georgia and Armania to the West, and the Caspian Sea to the East.
  Quick History of Azerbaijan:
     Considered part of Eastern Europe, Central Asia, and the Middle East, it is a post-Soviet republic and now does quite a bit of oil work.  It is (tecnically) the birthplace of Zoastrianism, and known as "The Land of Fire".  It is an ancient land, with petroglyphs that date back to the paleolithic era, lots of Zoastrian shrines that date back to 6000 BC, and is the farthest east that the Romans ever went.  It has over time, been an independant area, been under the control of the Ottoman Empire, The Iranian Shah, and (after briefly attaining independance in 1918 for about 8 months) was invaded by Russia and made a part of the Soviet Union, eventually gaining independance in 1992. It is a secular Muslim country and has good relations with the U.S. and Israel, with a focus on business.   (And to answer the most common question I get from back home; No, I don't have to wear a headscarf.)

 

I am currently in PST, or Peace Corps Training, and I am a Peace Corps Trainee, to become a full Peace Corps Volunteer after Swearing In.  Peace Corps has 3 programs in Azerbaijan; TEFL, Youth Development, and Community Development.  My program, TEFL, places American teachers in Azerbaijani schools to help teach English and advance understanding of America and Americans.  I have language class for 4 hours a day,5- 6 days a week, and technical training for roughly the same amount of time.
 (Update)  I am currently a PCV, or Peace Corps Volunteer, working in a small village in the Agdash region.  I have 16 hours of classes, and teach forms 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 7, and 8. I work in a small school of about 250 students, and have 2 counterparts (fellow English teachers) that I work with. I live with a local host family and at the moment don't know too many people, but hopefully the longer I am here, the more that will change.

If you have any questions for me, please leave a comment and I'll do my best to answer them!